Sujani

Origins of Care and Creativity

Sujani embroidery originated in the village of Bhusra in Bihar around the late 1920s, though its roots likely go deeper into oral and domestic traditions. It was initially practiced by Rajput women, who lived in confined spaces and were restricted from stepping outside. Within these limitations, Sujani became both a creative outlet and a quiet act of resistance. Originally, Sujani was a quilt-making practice—layers of discarded saris or dhotis were stitched together to form soft blankets for newborns, symbolizing the comforting embrace of a mother. Even the threads were often recycled from old fabrics, reflecting a tradition of sustainability born out of necessity and care.

Symbolism and Feminine Voice

What began as functional quilting evolved into a powerful form of storytelling and expression. In a patriarchal setting where women had few means of voicing their thoughts, Sujani allowed them to embroider their lives, emotions, and observations. The motifs depicted on Sujani works were more than decorative—they often addressed themes of fertility, motherhood, protection from evil, spirituality, and the everyday struggles of women. Traditional designs include sun, birds, sacred symbols, trees, and female figures, stitched in a way that transformed personal textiles into narrative textiles, preserving not only memories but collective wisdom and emotional resilience.

Technique, Style, and Materials

Sujani is distinguished by its running stitch base, typically in red or black thread on a white or light background, often contrasted with colored motifs and details. The base fabric is usually hand-stitched from layers of reused cotton cloth, making it both soft and textured. Motifs are outlined in chain or stem stitch and filled with simple darning or satin stitch. This economical technique doesn't rely on commercial threads or machines and is still largely done by hand. The stylistic hallmark of Sujani is its ability to blend functionality with narrative storytelling, making each piece unique to the maker’s vision and experience.

Contemporary Revival and Recognition

After a period of decline, Sujani embroidery experienced a revival in the late 20th century through the efforts of NGOs and grassroots organizations like Mithila Art Institute and Mahila Vikas Sahyog Samiti. These groups helped document the craft, train artisans, and connect them to national and international markets. Today, Sujani is used not only for baby quilts but also in wall hangings, cushion covers, stoles, and garments. It has gained global recognition for its ethnographic, sustainable, and feminist value, allowing contemporary women to carry forward a legacy that was once stitched in silence—but now speaks volumes.