NIRONA, GUJARAT
ROGAN ART
Rogan Art originated in present day Persia. The craft travelled to Nirona Village in Kutch, Gujarat around 400 years ago. The word ‘Rogan’ translates to oil based. Considered an ancient textile art, the process of Rogan art is as unique as its name.
Traditionally, floral and geometrical motifs are used in this craft. But, over the years, new designs like ‘The tree of Life’ have gained a lot of momentum.The craft was recognised by leaders in the likes of Narendra Modi. A striking change in the craft is to permit the participation of women. Earlier, only men were allowed and expected to learn the craft, but currently, even women are taught the intricacies of rogan.
Process
BOILING CASTOR OIL
It begins with boiling castor oil for about two days to formulate a jelly like substance. This jelly is stored in water prevent it from drying out.
DERIVING COLORS
Colors such as Red, Yellow, White, Blue, and Green are derived from stones in powder form. These pigment mineral colors are mixed with water to form a paste and then caster oil jelly is added. This paint paste is also stored in water so that it reamins soft.
KNEEDING PAINT PASTE
Usually, a dark colored fabric is attached to the frame to make the artwork stand out. The paint paste is kneeded on the palm of the hand with a metal rod. From body heat, the paste gets soft and a wire like structure can be obtained.
CREATING MOTIFS
Then, it is twisted into motifs and images using the metal rod and the skilled hands of the artisan. The rod pre-manipulates the strand of color in the air to create intended motifs before it hits the fabric and the fingers under the fabric help shape the final form into the fabric.
MIRROR IMAGE
Fabric is removed from the frame and two artisans fold the fabric precisely to print a mirror image by applying pressure on the folded fabric.
DRYING AND DETAILING
The fabric is left to dry in the sun for two hours. Once dry, intricate details are added to complete the artwork.
MEET THE ARTISANS
