Phulkari: Emotions Embroidered

On a winter morning, with masks, sanitizers and gloves, all ready and stored I boarded the Bus to Patiala. On the window seat, grasping every frame of the farms that came across covered with the morning dew, I felt the sun coming out and chasing the mist away. Soon as long as the eye could gaze, crops were basking in the subtle winter sun.

Arriving at Patiala bus stand, I could see so much happening around, from people crowded near a chai thela to conductors rushing to get more passengers in and auto vala’s bargaining for a fair ride price. It felt extremely warm to get out of the house for a short trip after so long. All packed with energy and the search for phulkari I set out to meet Mr. Dhavan.

Taking an E rickshaw and looking at people going to the gurudrawa in the morning and rushing to their shops, as it was the mark to begin their day. Mr Dhavan came out to greet me and I met his wife and daughter. 

On a cup of hot tea, we discussed about his love of phulkari and his connection to the craft, and how for ages his family has been doing the ‘Chappai’ for all the phulkari in the area.  On the entrance to his house, there was a small room which was converted for Chappai. His house had a huge veranda in which tables have been kept for Chappai too, but these were old and not used often because of the decline in hand made phulkari. The love he and the people around showed for the crafts filled my heart with immense joy. The process of Chappai seems so interesting, and they even let me try it too. 

Then we went to the other part of town to meet Lajwanti didi, she has been practicing and teaching phulkari to girls in her neighbourhood since 12-15 years. She herself learnt the art of of phulkari when she was 12 and she never left it. She showed us all her work, from her childhood till today, we were amazed at her development and consistency. Her mother in law, thou very old still practices phulkari, and she even taught me all the stitches. In her veranda, she had a kitchen garden, which could provide most vegetables for her family. Sitting in the subtle winter sun, eating sugarcane freshly taken from her garden and talking and learning about the craft. 

As the day ended, and I was going back to the bus station. I couldn’t help but wonder how despite such huge challenges from machine embroidered phulkari, the people who have been practicing the craft are so deeply attached to it. Despite such problems and low availability of embroiders the glimmer in eyes of the people, who practice it shows that the love for the craft and the dedication towards it can supersedes all. 

-Rajul Jain