Chikankari

Historical Roots and Royal Patronage

Chikankari, derived from the Persian word chikan meaning “embroidery,” is a delicate and refined hand embroidery tradition with deep roots in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. While some trace its origins back to 3rd century BCE, citing Megasthenes’ accounts of embroidered garments in India, others associate it more directly with the 17th-century Mughal court, where Empress Noor Jahan, wife of Jahangir, is said to have introduced it to India. Regardless of its precise origin, Chikankari blossomed under Mughal patronage. Later, in the 1830s, King Nasir-ud-Din Haidar of Awadh revived and elevated the craft by gifting intricately embroidered pieces to British officials and showcasing Chikankari in his royal courts, ensuring its prominence during colonial times.

Technique and Signature Aesthetic

Chikankari is known for its white-on-white embroidery, though it is now done on pastel and colored fabrics as well. It is traditionally done on fine muslin (malmal), mulmul, cotton, silk, voile, chiffon, and georgette. The embroidery begins with block printing the design in a washable dye, followed by needlework using white cotton thread. Over 32 types of stitches are used in Chikankari, including taipchi (running stitch), bakhiya (shadow work), phanda (knot), and murri (rice grain stitch), among others. This gives the embroidery a textural variation that is both subtle and richly ornate. The craft showcases extreme finesse, often appearing as if the patterns are gently floating over the fabric.

Motifs and Cultural Influences

The motifs in Chikankari are inspired by Mughal aesthetics and nature, often including paisleys, creepers, flowers (especially lotus and rose), peacocks, and abstract forms. Some of these motifs are also seen in Ajanta and Bagh cave paintings, reflecting a continuity of Indian visual traditions. The embroidery doesn’t just adorn clothing—it is a storytelling art, reflecting Awadhi elegance, refinement, and feminine grace. Traditionally, Chikankari work was done by women at home, but over time, it has become a community-wide craft, with both men and women artisans engaged in the intricate work.

Contemporary Relevance and Preservation

Today, Chikankari is a globally recognized textile craft, appearing in haute couture, luxury pret, and artisanal fashion alike. It holds a GI (Geographical Indication) tag, signifying its connection to Lucknow. Designers and craft organizations have played a key role in reviving interest in Chikankari by adapting it to modern silhouettes—kurtas, sarees, lehengas, shirts, dresses, and accessories. Despite its enduring appeal, artisans face challenges such as low wages, mass-machine imitations, and loss of traditional stitches. Efforts are ongoing to train new artisans, ensure fair wages, and promote sustainable markets. Chikankari continues to be a symbol of timeless elegance and cultural identity, woven gently into the fabric of Indian heritage.