Chamba rumal

Royal Roots and Ceremonial Origins

The Chamba Rumal (literally, handkerchief of Chamba) is a traditional form of embroidery that emerged in the 17th century in the Chamba Valley of Himachal Pradesh, under the patronage of the Rajput rulers. Originally crafted by royal women and courtly artisans, the rumals were used not as functional cloths but as ceremonial coverings, dowry gifts, or to wrap offerings in religious and social rituals. Often presented during weddings, engagements, or festivals, the embroidered textiles symbolized goodwill, blessing, and refinement. With time, this regal art form found its way into the homes of non-royal families, becoming an integral part of Pahari cultural identity.

Unique Style and Pahari Influence

What makes the Chamba Rumal stand apart is its use of fine line drawing and double satin stitch (also known as the do-rukha stitch), which results in a design that appears identical on both sides. This technique is laborious and requires great precision. The embroidery was often done over traced outlines created by miniature painters from the Pahari school of painting, giving the rumals their distinctive narrative and artistic depth. Common themes include episodes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Krishna Leela, as well as floral vines, animals, and dancing figures. The stitching technique transforms the cloth into a storytelling canvas that blends textile and painting traditions seamlessly.

Materials, Technique, and Symbolism

Traditionally, Chamba Rumals were embroidered on fine muslin, mulmul, or khaddar, using untwisted silk threads in vivid natural dyes such as indigo, madder, and turmeric. The do-rukha stitch involves working both sides simultaneously so the back mirrors the front—signifying purity, balance, and transparency. These pieces were rarely large in size but were rich in symbolism, often reflecting moral and spiritual lessons, social customs, or nature’s abundance. The base fabric was usually unbleached, allowing the colors to stand out. The rumals were not framed or worn, but preserved like heirlooms, handed down across generations.

Decline and Contemporary Revival

The craft saw a decline during the British colonial period as machine-made textiles gained popularity and patronage faded. However, a revival began in the late 20th century, led by organizations like the Delhi Crafts Council and artisans such as Lajja Ram, who worked to restore lost techniques and train new generations. Today, Chamba Rumals are once again appreciated as museum-worthy art pieces, often featured in exhibitions, restored from archives, and recreated by trained craftswomen. The embroidery continues to hold value as both a symbol of Himachali heritage and a living testament to the fusion of fine art and textile. It stands as an enduring reminder of the creativity of women and the visual storytelling traditions of the hills.