Tangaliya

Origins Rooted in Harmony and Heritage

Tangaliya is a 700-year-old hand weaving tradition that originated in the Saurashtra region of Gujarat. According to legend, the craft was born out of an inter-community union between a Bharwad (shepherd) man and a woman from a weaver caste. Their children, known as the Dangasia, became custodians of a new weaving legacy—Tangaliya. This art form developed as a visual expression of harmony and cultural convergence and has since been passed down through generations. It reflects not only the technical brilliance of the Dangasia community but also the region’s resilience in preserving its cultural identity.

The Technique: Weaving Beads into Fabric

Also called Daana weaving, Tangaliya is known for its painstakingly precise process. Weavers twist contrasting colored threads onto selected groups of warp threads—usually four to five at a time—forming tiny bead-like dots called daana. These dots form geometric and linear patterns across the textile, giving the illusion of embroidery, though they are entirely woven in. The fabric is built using a plain weave, with the extra weft twisted by hand. This form of tactile precision requires immense focus, a sharp visual memory, and an intuitive sense of rhythm, often developed over years of dedicated practice.

Motifs, Meanings, and Material Culture

The motif vocabulary of Tangaliya weaving is deeply inspired by the natural and cultural landscape of rural Gujarat. Common designs include mor (peacock), jhaad (plant or tree), chopad (a grid resembling board games), and naughara (nine-house square). These motifs reflect the daily lives, environment, and beliefs of the Bharwad and Dangasia communities. Traditionally, Tangaliya shawls and wraps are made from sheep wool or cotton, in earthy tones such as black, deep indigo, and maroon, which are then dotted with bright white or colored daana to create a striking visual contrast.

Regional Clusters and Contemporary Recognition

While Surendranagar district, especially villages like Vadhwan, Bajana, and Vasatral, remains the core hub for Tangaliya weaving, the craft is also practiced in other parts of Gujarat, including Rajkot, Jamnagar, Amreli, and Bhavnagar districts. Each cluster brings subtle variations in motifs and layout, reflecting their localized aesthetics. Once on the brink of extinction, Tangaliya has received GI (Geographical Indication) status from the Indian government, reviving interest and demand. Through design interventions, craft advocacy, and exhibitions, this once-niche tradition is finding its place in contemporary textile conversations—preserving both its legacy and its future.