Sanganeer

A Legacy Etched in White

Sanganeri block printing is a 400-year-old craft that originated in the town of Sanganer, just outside Jaipur, Rajasthan. It has been the ancestral home of the Chhipa community, whose name is derived from the Gujarati word ‘chhapna’, meaning “to print.” The community settled in this region due to its abundant water supply, ideal for washing, dyeing, and printing processes. Over the centuries, Sanganeri printing evolved from producing everyday cloth to creating exquisite textiles for royalty and temples, earning a place of pride in India’s textile heritage.

The Slow, Artful Process

The creation of a Sanganeri printed fabric is a painstaking process that spans 15–20 days. It begins with washing the cotton or silk cloth to remove impurities. The fabric is then treated with Harda, a natural mordant that gives it a soft yellow tint and helps fix the dyes. After drying under the sun, natural and mineral-based colors are prepared. Printing is done in stages: first, the outline block (rekh) is stamped, followed by filler blocks (datta). After printing, the fabric is dried again, then washed and boiled with alizarin, which fixes the red tones and enhances the overall vibrancy of the print.

Motifs, Aesthetics, and Materials

What makes Sanganeri printing unique is its use of a white or pale base fabric, allowing delicate motifs to shine. The designs are deeply inspired by nature and Mughal art, often featuring floral vines, creepers, paisleys, lotus flowers, birds, and sometimes religious symbols. The patterns are known for their fine lines, symmetry, and intricate detail, achieved through skillfully carved teak wood blocks. Traditionally, only natural dyes like indigo, madder, turmeric, and pomegranate rind were used. Today, while some synthetic pigments have been adopted, the soul of the craft remains intact in its manual precision and motif vocabulary.

Water, Skill, and Revival

Sanganer’s naturally mineral-rich water played a vital role in the craft’s success, helping achieve deep, rich tones and smooth color application. However, urban expansion and pollution have made access to clean water increasingly difficult, challenging the sustainability of this heritage craft. Despite these hurdles, Sanganeri printing has seen a resurgence through government GI (Geographical Indication) status, artisan collectives, and design interventions. With growing awareness and appreciation, younger generations are returning to the craft—redefining it not only as tradition but also as a timeless expression of handmade luxury.