ROGAN PAINTING

NIRONA, GUJARAT

Origins and Etymology

Rogan art is a rare and ancient form of fabric painting that originated over 300 years ago in Persia and traveled to India through cultural exchanges and trade routes. The word “Rogan” itself means “oil-based” in Persian, referring to the castor oil used as the primary medium in the craft. Over time, this intricate art form took root in the Kachchh region of Gujarat, where it remains practiced by a handful of families. Castor, being a local crop in Kachchh, has traditionally been sourced from nearby farms, creating a sustainable link between agriculture and artisan work.

The Unique Technique

The process of making Rogan art is both labor-intensive and precise. Castor oil is heated for over 12 hours, then cooled and mixed with natural mineral pigments to create a thick, vibrant paint. The artisan dips a metal stylus into the paint, holds it over the fabric, and twists and guides the paint without letting the tool touch the cloth. This freehand technique results in fine, thread-like lines. Once half the design is completed, the cloth is folded onto itself, imprinting a mirror image—a unique form of monoprinting that requires great skill and balance.

Motifs and Aesthetic Evolution

Traditional Rogan designs were simple and rustic, often made for decorating bridal trousseaus, curtain panels, or wall hangings. Over the years, the art has become more refined, even approaching the status of high art. Today’s motifs include geometric floral patterns, dancing peacocks, intricate borders, and the iconic Tree of Life, which symbolizes growth, eternity, and connection to nature. Each design is a reflection of Kutchi culture, and the patterns, while highly decorative, are also deeply symbolic—often inspired by folklore, environment, and religious beliefs.

Present-Day Practice and Preservation

Rogan art is now practiced by only a few families, most notably the Khatri family in the village of Nirona, Kachchh, who have played a major role in preserving the tradition. Despite near extinction, the craft gained international attention when a Rogan painting of the Tree of Life was gifted to U.S. President Barack Obama by Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi. Recognition like this has revitalized interest and brought younger generations back into the fold. Through workshops, exhibitions, and government support, Rogan is not only surviving but beginning to thrive once again—bridging the past with the present.