Phulkari

Origins Rooted in Tradition and Devotion

Phulkari, meaning "flower work" (phul = flower, kari = work), is a traditional form of embroidery from Punjab, believed to have originated around the 15th century. The earliest references are found in Punjabi folklore and poetry—most notably in the Heer-Ranjha epic, where Phulkari is mentioned as a part of bridal trousseau. The craft was never commercial in origin—it was a deeply domestic, emotional expression practiced by women for generations. It was mostly stitched by mothers and grandmothers for daughters and granddaughters, especially to commemorate milestones like birth, adolescence, and marriage. Over time, Phulkari became a symbol of identity, pride, and womanhood in Punjabi households.

The Living Textile of a Woman’s Life

Phulkari is more than embroidery—it is a narrative textile that evolves alongside the woman for whom it is made. The moment a girl is born, her mother or grandmother begins to embroider her Phulkari. It is customized to her personality, hopes, and virtues, and is slowly added to through the years. The final piece is gifted to her during her wedding, forming part of her dowry, and worn during rituals like Choora (bangle ceremony). These textiles, often worked on in silence or in the company of other women, were imbued with memories, blessings, and love—making Phulkari a deeply personal and intergenerational legacy.

Techniques, Patterns, and Materials

Traditional Phulkari is done on handspun cotton cloth called “khaddar”, dyed in earthy shades—typically red, maroon, or ochre, considered auspicious. The embroidery is worked from the reverse side using floss silk thread (pat) in vivid colors like gold, orange, blue, pink, and green. The most prominent stitch is the darning stitch, used to fill surfaces with long and short lines to create geometric, floral, and agricultural motifs. There are various styles: Bagh (meaning “garden”) covers the entire cloth with embroidery, Chope and Suber are wedding-specific shawls, Thirma symbolizes purity and is used by elderly or widowed women. Each style reflects social, emotional, and ritual significance.

Decline, Revival, and Modern Recognition

With the advent of industrialization and the Partition of India in 1947, Phulkari suffered a sharp decline as many skilled artisans were displaced or gave up the craft. However, recent decades have seen a revival through the efforts of craft organizations, museums, and designers, bringing Phulkari to fashion runways, home décor, and global markets. It now enjoys GI (Geographical Indication) tag status and is celebrated as a heritage symbol of Punjab. Yet, at its core, Phulkari remains a folk art of remembrance and resilience—a tribute to the unseen hands of women who embroidered not just cloth, but the soul of a culture.