KHES WEAVING
KHARAR, PUNJAB
Origins and Historical Roots
Khes is a traditional handwoven cotton textile that traces its roots to the Punjab region of undivided India, particularly thriving during the 19th and early 20th centuries. However, the origin of khes can be dated back to the Mughal era, when cotton weaving flourished under royal patronage. Originally designed as a thin cotton blanket, khes evolved into a multipurpose textile used by both rural and urban communities. It was often woven in household looms by women and became a symbol of domestic craftsmanship—integral to dowries and household inventories.
Material, Structure and Technique
Khes is typically woven using coarse handspun cotton yarn, and its structure is based on a plain or twill weave. Depending on the region, natural indigo, madder, and turmeric dyes were used to create subtle colors. A classic khes design features bold checks, stripes, or geometric patterns, often made by alternating colored yarns in warp and weft. Each khes is woven in two narrow panels due to the constraints of the pit loom, and then stitched together manually to form a broader piece. The weave is tight and durable, yet breathable, making it ideal for varying seasons.
Cultural Significance and Usage
Beyond its practical function, khes held cultural importance, especially in rural Punjabi households. It was a cherished possession gifted to daughters during marriage, used as a blanket, shawl, or wrap during winters, and also served as a mat or floor covering during rituals and gatherings. Elderly women would often wear khes like a shawl or lungi, and the textile became a symbol of comfort, modesty, and warmth. Some patterns and color combinations even indicated community identity or regional style. Khes making was a deeply gendered tradition, with women often participating in its weaving at home.
Decline and Contemporary Revival
With the advent of mill-made textiles and urbanization, khes weaving witnessed a sharp decline post-independence. However, recent years have seen a revival of interest in handloom traditions, with designers, NGOs, and collectors seeking out vintage khes for their aesthetic appeal and sustainability. In some regions of Punjab, Haryana, and even parts of Uttar Pradesh, weavers are adapting traditional khes patterns into scarves, stoles, and home décor items for modern markets. The revival effort is also helping in preserving the storytelling, identity, and craftsmanship of this humble yet iconic textile of the Indian subcontinent.
Process
