DABU HANDBLOCK PRINTING
BAGRU, RAJASTHAN
History and Cultural Significance
Dabu printing is a centuries-old, mud-resist block printing technique rooted in the cultural fabric of Rajasthan, particularly in Akola, Udaipur, and Bagru. The term Dabu comes from the Hindi word “dabaana”, meaning to press, referring to the resist technique used in the process. This eco-friendly craft dates back to the 16th century and is passed down through generations of artisans, especially among the Chhipa community. Originally practiced on fine cotton, Dabu printing today has evolved to include fabrics like silk, chiffon, and georgette, keeping the tradition relevant for modern markets.
Technique and Process
The Dabu process begins with hand-carved wooden blocks used to print a resist paste made of black clay (kali mitti), lime (chuna), jaggery (gur), and gum (gond). After printing, sawdust is sprinkled to prevent smudging. The fabric is sun-dried, then immersed in natural dyes—such as indigo for blue, iron for grey/black, and pomegranate and alum for red. The resist blocks the dye, leaving uncolored motifs that appear when the mud is washed off. For complex patterns, the process is repeated multiple times. Typical motifs include peacocks, sunflowers, mangoes, creepers, birds, and cornstalks, often inspired by nature and rural life.
Global Appeal and Sustainability
Dabu printing is prized worldwide for its handmade, sustainable nature. Using plant-based dyes and no chemicals, it has a minimal environmental impact, aligning with growing demand for eco-conscious fashion. Historically, Dabu-printed textiles were exported to Europe in the 19th century as “Indienne prints.” Today, Dabu prints are in demand globally for their durability, heritage value, and aesthetic beauty. Platforms like Mooldhaga.com are helping promote this craft in the ethical fashion space. Dabu represents not just a technique but a philosophy of slow, responsible textile production.
Challenges and the Way Forward
Despite its heritage, Dabu faces threats: mechanization, chemical dyes, raw material shortages, and a lack of skilled artisans and market awareness have put it at risk. Many artisans struggle due to low income, limited government support, and market competition from fast fashion. To revive it, efforts must focus on upskilling artisans, promoting entrepreneurship, and educating consumers. Exhibitions, community-led initiatives, and financial support from government and NGOs are essential. By reconnecting Dabu to sustainability movements and involving youth, the craft can thrive again and remain a vibrant part of India’s cultural legacy.
Process
