Bandhani

Ancient Origins and Cultural Significance

Bandhani, also known as Bandhej, is one of the oldest known forms of tie-and-dye textile art in the world. Its origins trace back to as early as 4000 BCE, with visual references found in the Ajanta caves and historical mentions during the Harappan Civilization. The term "Bandhani" comes from the Sanskrit word Bandh, meaning "to tie." This intricate resist-dyeing technique has flourished primarily in Gujarat, Rajasthan, and parts of Madhya Pradesh, and holds ceremonial significance in many Indian communities. Bandhani textiles are often worn during weddings, festivals, and religious events, symbolizing auspiciousness, prosperity, and joy.

The Technique: Tying with Precision

Bandhani is an exacting, time-intensive process that requires immense skill. Artisans start by marking out patterns on a fabric—usually cotton, silk, or georgette. Tiny portions of the fabric are then pinched and tightly tied with thread to create resist points. After dyeing, the tied areas resist color and remain uncolored, forming intricate dot-based patterns like leheriya (waves), mothra (checks), shikari (hunting scenes), and jaal (networks). Some Bandhani designs require over 10,000 ties, making the work labor-intensive and highly precise. Natural and chemical dyes are both used, with traditional colors like red, maroon, saffron, yellow, and indigo holding symbolic meanings.

Communities and Geography

Bandhani is practiced mainly by the Khatri community in Gujarat, particularly in regions like Jamnagar, Bhuj, Mandvi, and Saurashtra. In Rajasthan, it thrives in Jaipur, Udaipur, Jodhpur, and Barmer. Each region has its distinct color palette, pattern, and technique—for example, leheriya from Rajasthan uses diagonal stripes created by rolling and tying the fabric in a specific way before dyeing. The craft is often a family tradition, passed down through generations, with women typically assisting in tying and men handling the dyeing process. Bandhani is more than a textile—it's a visual archive of regional identity and community heritage.

Contemporary Evolution and Global Reach

With increasing attention toward slow fashion and handcrafted textiles, Bandhani has found new relevance on the global stage. Designers and craft-based brands are reimagining Bandhani in contemporary silhouettes—like dresses, jackets, scarves, and even shoes. Technological improvements in resist dyeing, color fastness, and fabric blending have enhanced its durability and market potential. While artisans continue traditional methods, newer generations are experimenting with digital layouts and new materials to diversify applications. From artisan markets to international fashion weeks, Bandhani now stands as a symbol of heritage with innovation, reflecting the resilience and creativity of India's living crafts.