Bagru

The Land of Wooden Blocks and Red Earth

Just a short drive from Jaipur lies Bagru, a town with a 300-year-old legacy of block printing. The Chhipa community, whose name is derived from “chhapna” (to print), has been central to preserving and evolving this craft. Unlike the delicate white-based prints of nearby Sanganer, Bagru printing is known for its bold, earthy designs, printed on dyed backgrounds such as beige, rust, and black. As you enter Bagru, you’re greeted by rows of fabric drying under the sun, the soft thud of hand blocks echoing through open courtyards—signs of a craft still deeply alive.

A Natural and Rhythmic Process

Bagru printing follows a multi-step, eco-sensitive process that uses natural materials at every stage. It begins with washing the fabric to remove starch and impurities, followed by Harda treatment, a natural mordant that gives the cloth a yellowish base. The colors are prepared using natural and mineral dyes, including indigo, madder, turmeric, and iron acetate. Printing is done with hand-carved wooden blocks, using multiple impressions to complete a single motif—starting with the outline and followed by the fill colors. After printing, the fabric is dried and washed, and may undergo additional dyeing for finishing, depending on the palette.

Bold Motifs Rooted in Culture

Bagru prints are known for their large-scale, geometric motifs that reflect the rural environment and daily life. Common patterns include aath kaliya (eight-petal flower), leheriya (waves), jhar (creepers), and boota (floral sprigs). These motifs are carved into blocks made of seasoned teakwood and often passed down as family heirlooms. Unlike the fine florals of Sanganer, Bagru’s aesthetic is more rustic and graphic, making it suitable for both traditional and contemporary design. Historically used for turban cloths and household textiles, these prints now appear in garments, furnishings, and high-end fashion.

Practice, Preservation, and Beyond

Though Dabu (mud-resist printing) is also practiced in Bagru, it is a distinct technique and not to be confused with Bagru printing itself. The success of Bagru printing is deeply linked to generational skill, access to local natural resources, and a strong sense of community craft identity. Despite challenges like urban sprawl and shrinking water availability, the craft has endured through artisan cooperatives, collaborations with designers, and renewed global interest. Bagru’s enduring appeal lies in its ability to remain rooted in tradition while adapting to the needs of contemporary craft lovers and conscious consumers.