Sanganeer, Rajasthan

Sanganeer

The perpetual wars between the Mughals and the Marathas during the 16th and 17th century led some artisans from the Chippa community in Gujarat,
Punjab and Sindh region to migrate. They settled in Rajathan and began the development of Sanganer block printing under the patronage of the royal family
of Jaipur. The craft is said to be five centuries old, born out of a small village named Sanganer, located near southern Jaipur.

Sanganeri prints have fine delicate patterns where the motifs are inspired by the cultural flora and fauna of Sanganer. This printing is done on a bright white background with motifs of vibrant hues. Motifs include florals (roses, sunflowers, narcissus), gods, fruits, folk scenes, etc. This craft became one of the major export items for the East India Company because of the dye used in printing. The dye became a matter of significance in European cultures as well.

Process

DESIZING

The fabric is washed with caustic soda or acetic acid to remove starch. If required, the fabric is bleached or dyed. Then the fabric is washed again and dried.

SETTING UP PRINTING TABLES

The printing tables are layered with 24 layers of jute fabric and 4-5 layers of cotton fabric. After this, the main fabic is pinned.

COLOR TRAY

A tray with a cement base and wooden sides is used. Taati (a frame made by joining multiple wooden or iron sticks with cotton or plastic thread), a layer of jute fabric and synthetic mesh are layered in the mentioned order inside the tray. For outline and filling block, an additional layer of voile and chiffon fabric are required simultaneously.

COLORS

Colors are made depending on the printing process and the block (base, outline, filling) it will be used for.

PRINTING

The various methods used for printing fabric are Discharge, Rapid, Kadi and Pigment. The fabric is laid on large tables where it is printed directly using wooden blocks. First, the background block (gaj) is printed, then the outline block (rekh) and finally the filler blocks (datta) are used.

DRYING AND WASHING

The printed fabric is dried in sunlight for 3-4 hours. This is done to provide steam to the fabric and to remove the odour of chemicals. Finally, the fabric is washed using a mild detergent and dried.